Preparation & Pre-Wash

Start with a cool car in the shade. Remove any personal items from the interior and take out floor mats.

• Rinse the entire vehicle with a pressure washer or hose, working top to bottom
• Apply wheel cleaner to all wheels and let it dwell (don't let it dry)
• Spray pre-wash foam if available to loosen surface dirt
• Let it dwell for 3-5 minutes while you prepare your buckets

Wheel Cleaning

Clean wheels first — they're the dirtiest part of your car. Never use the same tools on wheels and paint.

• Agitate with a wheel brush, getting into all crevices and around lug nuts
• Clean the barrel of the wheel if accessible
• Rinse thoroughly and move to the next wheel
• Dry wheels with a dedicated microfiber towel

Two-Bucket Wash

The most important step for a scratch-free finish. This method keeps dirt away from your paint.

• Fill one bucket with water and car wash soap (follow dilution ratio)
• Fill second bucket with clean rinse water only
• Place grit guards at the bottom of both buckets
• Start from the roof and work your way down
• After each section, rinse mitt in clean water, then reload with soap
• Use straight-line motions, not circles
• Rinse the car thoroughly after washing all panels

Drying

Proper drying prevents water spots and prepares the surface for the next steps.

• Use a large microfiber drying towel (24" x 36" or larger)
• Start from the top and gently glide the towel across the surface
• Don't press hard — let the towel absorb the water
• Flip the towel when one side is saturated
• Use a separate towel for door jambs and tight areas
• Dry wheels again to catch any remaining water

Decontamination (Clay Bar)

Claying removes bonded contaminants that washing alone can't eliminate — overspray, tree sap, industrial fallout.

• Feel the paint — if it feels rough or gritty, it needs claying
• Spray clay lubricant generously on a small section
• Gently glide the clay bar back and forth (don't press hard)
• Fold the clay frequently to expose a clean surface
• Wipe dry and move to the next section
• Work panel by panel until the entire car is done

Polishing (Optional)

Polishing removes light scratches, swirl marks, and oxidation. This step is optional for maintenance details but essential for correction.

• Assess your paint — if you see swirls or light scratches, polishing will help
• Choose the right polish — light polish for maintenance, compound for heavier defects
• Apply to a polishing pad (by hand or machine)
• Work in small sections, using overlapping passes
• Buff off residue with a clean microfiber towel
• Inspect your work under good lighting

Protection (Wax/Sealant/Ceramic)

Protection is what keeps your car looking great between details. Choose based on your needs and budget.

Option A: Traditional Wax

• Warm, deep shine
• Lasts 4-8 weeks
• Best for: Show cars, enthusiasts who enjoy the process

Option B: Synthetic Sealant

• Longer lasting than wax
• Lasts 3-6 months
• Best for: Daily drivers, low maintenance

Option C: Ceramic Coating (Consumer Grade)

• Maximum durability and hydrophobics
• Lasts 1-2 years
• Best for: Those wanting long-term protection

• Apply to clean, dry paint in small sections
• Use an applicator pad for even application
• Let it haze (follow product instructions for timing)
• Buff off with clean microfiber
• Allow to cure (usually 12-24 hours before getting wet)

Interior Detailing

A complete detail includes the interior. Don't skip this step!

• Remove trash and personal items
• Vacuum thoroughly — seats, floors, trunk, door pockets
• Clean dashboard and trim with interior cleaner
• Wipe down door panels and console
• Clean windows inside and out with glass cleaner
• Condition leather if applicable
• Dress tires and trim for a finished look